| Foil is about 0.0002 thick.. its placed behind the bearing shell about 2/3's of the shells length, and at shell width.. center the shim at the 'Bottom' ( or top ) of the bearing.. The Foil Shim adds thickness to the 'Top and Bottom' of the Clearance Hole.. NOT THE SIDES.. if you have to use another Shim ( Two Needed for thickness ) put another one in the Other half.. Some Rods need the Oil Squirter Hole punched for the Piston Bottom .. just make sure everything lines up.. if you end up with TWO shims on the same shell, make the next one about 50% of the shell length.. same width.. You do not want any 'Steps' that the Journal will fall off of and cause hot spots on the bearing.. IT MUST ALWAYS TURN FREE AFTER ASSEMBLY!! For Industrial applications ( Air Compressors ) I've shimmed 0.002.. THAT IS A LOT.. the problem when doing this is the Hole the Journal is running in is no longer round.. it's best to squeeze JUST A LITTLE.. or better yet, none at all.. This is not for the Timid.. if you screw up, it's all FUBARED.. so know how to check clearances.. loose is better than tight!! This last 300 Motor I did, I closed the Rods up one foil shim in each half, to get me at 0.0016, 0.0018 clearance on the rods, and 0.0014, 0.0016 on the mains.. Only shimmed the Mains on the Lower of the Bearing half.. because of the Oil Groves in the Upper Half of the Block.. and they did not need much.. AFTER shimming, I assemble the Engine Lower with pistons and NO Rings.. make sure it all still turns SMOOTH.. Then remove the Rods/Pistons and put on Rings.. this will make sure all the Surfaces are Straight/True and NOT binding ( Bent Rods? ).. I was actually taught to use tissue paper.. but that was AGES ago.. I find Aluminum Foil works better for me.. and always double check your work.. TWICE.. I'd not sweat 1.5 Deg.. but if you have the Cam Gears.. use them..
Cj
|
